We have been overwhelmed by a series of unexpected events but we're doing well and we're holding the grip through our journey.
Last week we left Yerevan for Stepanakert, capital of the Artsakh Republic of Nagorno-Karabakh.
Nagorno-Karabakh is a de facto nation, de jure a region in western Azerbaijan.
Historically it's always been Armenian and so is the 95% of population.
Our marshrutka leaves Yerevan in the morning. Just half an hour before approaching the frontier we find a cloud not above, but in front of us.
The weather suddenly changes and we find ourselves surrounded by the clouds, nothing but a white fog in front of our bus.
And Stepanakert doesn't make exceptions. It's completely white.
People look at us like aliens, with our backpacks and hiking clothes we effectively look "exotic".
Karin (our hosts)'s daughters welcome us as soon as we arrive to their house.
We get the "seat of honour" just in front of the fireplace, and they prepare tea with biscuits, honey and jam for us.
Then Karin arrives and the food on our table starts to multiply. We can't say we've been hungry!
Karin explains to us how the Karabakhi's consideration towards Russia started to change once they started selling weapons to Azerbaijan.
We watch some Russian television and we go to bed, it's been a long day.
The morning after we have breakfast and we start our promenade through Stepanakert.
It's quite dispersive, not a big town, but not very "compact" either unlike any other capital.
We head to the Artsakh State Museum next to the main square and the guide starts following us explaining all the peculiarities of Nagorno-Karabakh.
She tells us about mulberry, the "national fruit" and how they make vodka from it.
She shows us a clay pot which we'll discover being an ancient coffin, and then she leads us to another room with a model of Shushi's monastery and some photos of Gandzasar.
She starts telling us about the true pride of Artsakh, carpets.
Karabakhi carpets are among the finest you can find in Central Asia and the techniques haven't changed till today.
Then her face darkens a bit and she tells us how the Karabakhi feel "prisoners" of Azerbaijan.
"Imagine being a child, being taken away from your mother and forced to stay with your neighbours for more than seventy years. This is how we feel."
Historically, the Artsakh region has always belonged to Armenia, from 189 b. C. to 387 AD, before passing to Caucasian Albania until the 7th century. Around the year 1000 the Kingdom of Artsakh is one of the few Armenian regions which managed to maintain its independence through Turkish invasions during the Middle Age.
Only in the 20th Century, with the Soviet invasion of Transcaucasia, Stalin assigned the region to the Azeri SSR, and even after the fall of the Union, Azerbaijan "keeps" Artsakh in its borders.
But the inhabitants always felt "children of Armenia" with an identity of their own, which you can find in their language, religion and costumes.
This country (I prefer to call it country rather than mere "region") is the most underrated place in Caucasus.
In 2012 some US States, New South Wales in Australia, Euskal Herria, Transnistria, South Ossetia and Abkhazia started recognising the Republic of Nagorno-Karabakh.
We hope some UN countries will start considering this beautiful place next time we'll be there. :)
People like the Karabakhi have a lot to teach to the world. In an era when people are defined by welfare and possessions, they don't care if you're rich or not. They have nothing, but they will always give you what they can.
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