it's OK to be a bit lost...more Turkish delight!

It's been two weeks since we officially started our trip and sometimes I have the feeling that we've been "running" a bit too much, mostly because we were overexcited to see this part of world which most people very seldom consider, maybe because it's not "fashionable" as London, Paris or New York would be.

But let me tell you more about Istanbul, the thousands of cats we crossed on our way (I still want to go back there and take them all with me!) and the spell it might cast on you as soon as you cross the city gates.

• Istanbul smells damn good. I really mean it. Whenever we went out somewhere we could smell chestnuts, Turkish coffee, hookahs, clovers, saffron and dried fruits, no matter where were we.
• With less than 10 liras you can have a proper meal almost everywhere. There are two cafes in the lower part of the Galata Bridge where you can taste a spartan, but delicious mackerel sandwich with a view over the Golden Horn. All for the price of a Starbucks latte or less.
• The whole city is a great maze. You can get easily lost but you cannot mind much as the things you find are far more interesting than finding the right route.
• CATS GALORE. EVERYWHERE. You can have a çay in front of a çay evi (tea house) or çay bahcesi (tea garden) and find yourself surrounded by those little meowing furry balls which we all adore (no excpetions, whoever claims to hate cats is a liar and that's all). Just look for the smallest cafes, the ones with tiny chairs and possibly in slopy alleys. They're cheap and excellent and kitties are free of charge.
• Turkish food is great. From simit (which I mentioned in my last post-you can find them anywhere in the city from street vendors with tiny red chariots), to manti (Turkish hand made raviolis served with a yogurt sauce. Lots of restaurants now have the habit of exposing a lady making hundreds of mantis from scratch in front of everyone. Though this normally proves the genuine production of this delicacy, the best ones are made in a proper kitchen), to, ça va sans dire, lokum and baklavas for dessert.
• The Grand Bazaar. It's not necessary to look something to buy here: a view in the late afternoon, as soon as they switch the lights on, is the greatest of souvenirs.

Here's some spare pics, as promised:

The Grand Bazaar is astonishing from floor to ceiling. Literally.

  

The Blue Mosque, indeed my greatest crush so far.

The Galata Tower was our personal good morning view.

 

 I'm sorry for the picture placing inconvenience...though I like it, and you?
Talk soon!

Castel del Monte

Castel del Monte

On Sunday we went to visit the Castel del Monte castle in the Apulian countryside, one of the greatest prides of this wonderful region, World Heritage Site since 1996.
This castle has been built in the 13th Century by the once King of Italy, then Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II of Hohenstaufen (AKA Barbarossa, “Redbeard”).
The legend says he died before it was finished; its purposes and uses during the early centuries are still doubtful.

Neither a castle, nor a fortress

Despite its denomination (literally “Castle of the Mountain”), it cannot be considered as a proper castle.
The absence of moats, drawbridges, or military elements, the counter-clockwise spiral staircases (which would disadvantage who potentially lived there in case of defence against enemies, forcing them to hold their weapons with their left hand), the narrow loopholes, too small for potential archers, would exclude its use as a fortress.

The style and composition of the building, extremely detailed according to mathematical and astronomical rules, the light-and-shadow tricks during spring and autumn equinox, the octagonal shape and the recurrence of the number 8 in almost every detail, would suggest the utility as a temple, or a “knowledge temple” for those who wanted to make particular studies or researches in discretion and peace.

Eight is a magic number

Everything is geometrical; but some asymmetries and imperfections would give a hint that there was some kind of route which would force the visitor to follow a determined path through the eight towers and the courtyard.
The octagon used to be seen as a crossing between the square (representing the earth, the “concrete”) and the circle (representing the sky and spirituality); the building would be considered then as “something between the earth and the sky”.
But it was also the stylisation of the Emperor’s crown; its strategic position, on the top of the hill in the middle of Frederick’s most loved lands, would also be seen as another symbol of the Holy Roman Empire, preventing the inhabitants of the vassal towns from potential riots.
Imagine 1984 set in the Middle Age!

“Death” and rebirth

From the 17th century, Castel del Monte was abandoned in dreadful conditions.
First stripped of its decors, furnitures and marble decorations (some of the were “recycled” for the majestic Reggia di Caserta in Campania), then turned into a prison and shelter for shepherds, thieves and refugees.

But the Italian State bought the castle for the then-enormous sum of 25,000 Liras, setting the base for its refurbishing works which started in 1879.

These works lasted until the 1930s, when it found its place as one of the country’s most important monuments.

In 1996 UNESCO elected Castel del Monte World Heritage Site, for the harmonious blend of Classical, Islamic and Gothic styles and the precision of its shapes.

The fascinating symbolism of this place, not mentioning the relaxing views from the top of the hill at any time of the day, makes it a true must-see for a trip in the “Italian Heel”.

picture by Steve Genzo :)